Wine Notes
Alsace Wine Notes — 12/11/2008
Situated on France’s most easterly border gazing towards Germany. Alsace only became part of France in 1648 at the end of the 30 years war, before that it was part of the germanic Holy Roman Empire.
The wines of the region owe much to the Rhine Valley as this was the traditional route along which they were traded. The famous ‘Rhenish’ wines of the middle ages were probably Alsacian wines and the imposing building and beautiful towns built in this period are testament to the wealth of the region at that time. That the buildings are still there is testament to how poor and disturbed it’s history has been since then.
The Region
Alsace is one of the most picturesque of all vineyard areas, with its fairy-tale towns, with winding narrow streets and half timbered houses that are straight out of a Grimm’s tale.
Alsace is divided administratively into two halves; the Haut Rhin and Bas Rhin. The northern Bas Rhin is the less favoured, lying as it does in a position where the mountains are lower and the protection less. It is here that many of the grapes for Crémant d’Alsace (sparkling wines) are grown. The southern end is the Haut Rhin, a region that is strewn with famous named villages such as Ribeauvillé, Kaysersberg and Bergheim.
Climactically speaking, Alsace is dominated by the Vosges mountains which protect the region from rainbearing west winds. Indeed, Alsace basking in the Vosges rain shadow is the second driest vineyard area in France and enjoys summers and autumns where blue skies are the norm for weeks on end.
The Alsace Wine Trade
The trade in Alsace wines is dominated by the négociants. Many of these firms are ancient and well respected, such as Trimbach, Hugel and Keuntz-Bas. Alongside them are the cooperatives which dominate the volume production and an increasing number of growers who are bottling their own wines.
The Vines
Alsace has a multitude of grape varieties, nearly all of them white. Here is some information about the main ones:
Riesling: Planted throughout Alsace, the region’s finest quality vine reaches it’s apogee in the centre of the Haut Rhin. In general gives piercingly dry wines, with good acidity and fine flavour. In exceptional years it can be produced in off-dry, through to lusciously sweet styles. Riesling particularly enjoys warm, mineral-rich soils. Here it is often planted on granite.
Gewürztraminer: Often considered to be the architypical Alsace grape and wine, in the region however Riesling and the Pinots are more favoured. Typical examples are exotic in the extreme, with a rose petal and lychee perfume, and a rich, unctuous palate that may be styled in anything from dry to intensely sweet. Whatever the style it carries a signature spiciness. Klevener de Heiligenstein is a rare variety, related to Gewürz found in the Bas Rhin. (This in nothing to do with Klevner which is Alsace dialect for Pinot.
Muscat: There are only tiny amounts planted of this delectable grape, due to problems growing it. It is normally produced in a dry style and has a heady perfume of flowers and oranges. Actually there are 2 Muscat varieties here which are not related to each other. Muscat d'Alsace, (Muscat a petit grains) and Muscat Ottonel, which is not a true Muscat, but is much preferred by most growers,
Tokay Pinot Gris: Not be confused with the great wine of Hungary, this grape has similarities with Gewärztraminer although it is completely unrelated being a member of the Pinot family. Both have heady aromas and traces of spice on a soft palate. Pinot Gris has a greater acidity and a finer balance than Gewürz and is much easier to pair with food. Again it can be styled dry, through to seriously sweet. Pinot Gris enjoys limestone and marly soils.
Pinot Noir: The only red grape in Alsace, it can, in good years, from a good producer be a wine of great flavour and intensity. It does not seem to develop the complex, 'farmyard' characters here, and the fruit character is generally dark cherries. Until fairly recently Alsace Pinot was the region's great disappointment, marked by a dry astringency, and a colour no more than rosé.
Pinot Blanc: A soft, easy drinking wine that can have a creaminess and softness not a million miles from Chardonnay. Some is very good and oaked versions have been quite succesful. Much of the wine sold as Pinot Blanc is made from the Pinot Auxerrois variety.
Chardonnay: The ubiquitous Chardonnay has found a home in Alsace. Although technically ‘experimental’, its small plantings are increasing.
Sylvaner: Well planted in the northern areas, it offers a fairly neutral character of low acidity and muted tones. Though it is seen as a varietal, and can be good, it is often destined for blended ‘Edelzwicker’.
Chasselas: Now a minor variety with only about 150 hectares are declared. However I suspect that there is rather more in vineyards designated for Edelzwicker.
The Villages
The villages of Alsace form the hub of the wine trade. Below are a few notes on some we visit.
Rorschwihr: The village has no "Grand Crus" but it has several very good slopes with historic reputations.
Bergheim: Grand Crus of Altenberg de Bergheim and Kanzlerberg are on marly-limestone soils.
Kientzheim: Grand Crus Furstentum and Schloss-berg, a mix of granite, limestone and marl.
Ribeauvillé: Three Grand Crus are located here; Geisberg; Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé & Osterberg.
Riquewihr: This important village is home to several leading negociants and both the Sporen and Schoenenbourg Grand Crus, which contain marl and sand soils.
Turckheim: The top vineyard of this lovely village is the Brand, a granite slope famous for Riesling.
Eguisheim & Husseren-les-châteaux. A long gentle rise gives various good vineyards and a lot of good wine.
Ammerschwihr is home to the Kaefferkopf, arguably the most famous vineyard in Alsace. It isn't Grand Cru but has it's own AOC anyway which can cover the blends which the vineyard is famous for. It was actually a stunning Kaefferkopf Gewurtz in the early 80's which first turned me on to Alsace. (Tim)
The Wines
Alsace AOC. Wine grown in Alsace vineyards from permitted vines is labelled by its varietal or if a blend, as Edelzwicker. Some carry vineyard names which may indicate higher quality.
Alsace Grand Cru: As in Burgundy, this relates to vineyards with exceptional soils and climates. Only Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Tokay Pinot Gris and Muscat qualify. It took years to devise and controversy still simmers. Some hate the idea, some love it and Hugel think the rules are too lax.
Vendange Tardive: Literally late harvest - musts are more ripe, wines are sometimes vinified dry but there may be residual sweetness.
Sélection des Grains Nobles: These are wines whose grapes were heavily affected by botrytis. Rare, but are worth seeking as they are glorious.
Edelzwicker: A blend, generally of low quality. Originally Edel Zwicker was the Noble Blend, ie of Riesling, Gewurtz, Muscat etc, the Zwicker was the rubbish.
Cuisine of Alsace
One eats very well in Alsace for relatively little money. Servings are enormous. Most common are:
Flamme kueche: A flat, open pizza, with bacon, onions, crème fresh and sometimes cheese. A (new) sweet version uses apples & eau de vie.
Sauerkraut: Pickled cabbage with juniper berries, cooked in wine with pork, sausages and potato.
Quiche Lorraine: Best here on near home turf. Onion Tarte is truly local.
Coq au Riesling: Chicken stewed in Riesling.
Baeckoffe: A delicious hot-pot.
Quiche Lorraine: Best here on near home turf.
Torte de la Vallée: A spicy pork pie, served hot.
Ill Pike or Ill Truite - Healthy fish from the River Ill.
Other specialities include wild mushrooms, game and smoed ham with lashings of potatoes stewed with butter and onion.
Munster: The local cheese which should be soft and supple with a tangy taste and powerful smell - usually served with cumin seeds.
Tarte à l’Alsacienne: Superb fruit tarts.
Kugelhopf: Brioche, often served at tastings.
