Press Reports
The Times - From grape to glass in Corsica — 28/07/2007
Tim Hames joins some enthusiasts for a wine tour of Corsica; plus more French wine breaks
“You don’t have to use the spittoon,” remarked Rosemary George, our wine guide, on a balmy evening in Corsica with a table positively heaving with assorted bottles behind her. That was all the encouragement that some of us needed.
I confess I had a few qualms about spending four days in the company of wine enthusiasts, travelling by coach between estates and vineyards for tasting sessions. I had developed a not entirely encouraging mental picture of those with whom I would have to be billeted. The party would be full of men called Jeremy or Sebastian, dressed in blue blazers augmented with bow-ties or cravats, whose conversation would be peppered by remarks such as “decent bouquet on this one” and “shades of raisins here, or possibly sultanas”.
My approach to wine is more that of the enthusiastic amateur than the polished professional. The last thing that I wanted was to feel peer-group pressured into swilling wine around the mouth for a few enticing seconds and then propelling it elsewhere. If I want that sort of activity, then I buy Listermint, not an enticing rosé.
Yet none of my assumptions was to prove more than mere prejudice. There was someone called Jeremy, but he wore neither a bow-tie nor a cravat and was a civilised fellow. Rosemary, the wine expert, did indeed tend to spit her helpings out, but not all the time and in a discreet, rather than an ostentatious, manner. The schedule was punishing. The band of two dozen souls rose for breakfast, headed off into the Corsican hinterland (spellbindingly beautiful) for the first estate, the Domaine de Pietri, where they produce a jolly white called vermentino, and our initial tasting of the day (a dozen or so bottles, kicking off at 10.30am). Then we moved on to Domaine Pastricciola, which produces patrimonio, Corsica’s most famous red, for the next tasting, pushing on to lunch (with wine), before rolling back to the charming hotels selected for an afternoon swim (or, more likely, a tactical snooze) in advance of gathering again for dinner (with another range of bottles).
Rosemary patiently explained what it was that we were drinking, where it came from, its distinctive features, etc, before letting the thirsty hordes reach their own conclusions. It was meant to be fun, and it was.
The Corsican wine was rather enjoyable as well. It is not seen much in Britain, mostly because the influx of tourists from mainland France each summer drinks enough of the stuff to make the notion of exporting it appear a tiresome hassle. Rosemary told us that it had improved enormously over the years and that the muscat, in particular, could hold its own by international standards.
Midweek trips, such as ours, tended to attract an older crowd. But according to Rosemary, shorter dashes to France (especially the champagne weekends) have a somewhat younger fraternity. Long-haul expeditions to Australia, California or South America appeal to those with a serious sense of adventure. Having someone competent to do the organisation for them and provide the accommodation, food and wine while they are at it is an added bonus.
Tim Hames travelled to Corsica with Arblaster & Clarke (01730 26311, www.winetours.co.uk)
Tim Hames
