Wine Notes
Northern Spain Wine Notes — 24/06/2008
Ribera del Duero
Lying between Madrid and Santander is Spain’s most fashionable region - Ribera del Duero. At A&C we have always been very excited by Ribera.
When we first visited here, back in 1988, the area was virtually unknown apart from its most famous bodega, Vega Sicilia. The ground breaking 1986 vintage of Pesquera by Alejandro Fernandez had just been released and we were hugely excited by the intensity of the flavours and the raciness of the wine. The other emerging producers seemed determined to make great wine too.
History
Vines were grown by the locals since time immemorial, in tiny plots alongside other crops such as corn. Such wines were not bottled but drunk locally or sent to Rioja for inclusion in blends. Phylloxera struck here later than in Rioja, but with the same effect. With replanting came the small cooperatives that increased the quality of the wine. These co-ops drove the bulk of the region’s wines until 1982 when the DO came into operation. It heralded vast investment, with new bodegas, a large increase in plantings and the birth of a modern classic region.
The Region
The region sprawls over four provinces; Burgos, Soria, Valladolid and Segovia. The vines line the north and south banks of the Duero valley and are surrounded on all sided by flat-topped hills. The finest vines are grown at anywhere between 700m - 900m in the classic area just east of Valladolid. Interestingly some of the best vineyards here are on slopes facing north. The vineyards run along a stretch that is nearly 35kms wide and 110km in length. Soils which are dominated by limestone, are easy to work and in places are quite beautiful. This huge area obviously includes some poor soils and a whole sector up towards Soria which has much higher rainfall. The political wrangles and D.O. border disputes were not about quality however, they were concerning some very good vineyards that were just downstream from the best part of the D.O. but outside of it.
The climate is not easy, with cold winters, warm to hot summers, receiving reasonable rainfall, but much of it out of the growing season, but importantly with cool nights towards harvest which help the grapes keep the acidity, and gain complexity and uplifted aromas.
The Vines
Tinto Fino or Tinto Pais: A Tempranillo clone, accounts for the vast proportion of plantings and although DO wines must contain minimum 75% of it, they usually contain much more. Cabernet is the other favoured grape, it is not a recent import, it has been here since the beginning and was in the earliest bottlings of Vega Sicilia. Malbec, Merlot and Garnacha are also planted. The while Albillo may be used in the reds too, largely to add acid. Only red and rosado wines are made here.
The Wines of Ribera
Ribera will always be compared to Rioja, although this is not really fair to either region. Anyway.... Ribera wines are a touch more vivid and concentrated in their fruit, the acidity is higher and there is a distinct lift to the aromas. Generalising further, they often seem to need to be aged for a few years before drinking, whereas Riojas are more ready, more mellow and more generous.
The classification system is similar to Rioja. Gran Reserva, Reserva, Crianza and Joven. Gran Reservas are very rare and likely to be seriously expensive. Reserva has the concentration and the balance, while at the moment many Crianzas (which must spend a year in cask) are pretty disappointing. There has been a lot of planting recently and I suspect that the produce of these young vines is making these boring Crianzas. Finally unaged 'beaujolais-style' Joven, - well, why do they bother? And given the price that they can get for Crianzas, I suspect that they won't bother for much longer.
When we first visited Ribera there were I think 6 producers bottling wine. There are now some 250. The first boom started in the late 80's and continued up until 1996. Then, just as Ribera seemed set to unthone Rioja the prices over-reached themselves, the supply exceeded demand, the average quality faltered and Ribera was faced with its first 'bust'.
Since then Bodegas have continued to be founded apace. The second generation wineries are now mature and we can see any number of stars here; Hacienda Monasterio, Pingus, Pago de los Capellanes, Pago de los Carraovejas and Jaros spring to mind. Abadia Retuerta and Bodegas Mauro, who are both just outside the D.O. are equal in quality to the best of Ribera too.
Rueda
This high, undulating plain to the southwest of Ribera del Duero, is also emerging as one of Spain’s greats, but for white wines, with no reds until very recently.
History
Rueda was put on the map when Marques de Riscal, one of the two senior Rioja bodegas, (who had never made white wine), chose Rueda as the site for their new white wine winery. Prior to this, the region was known only for sherry-like wines, (which are still made in a small way) - Palido, which is created in in a solera system (as per sherry), and the oxidised Dorada, which is made in glass jars stored in the sun.
The Region
In common with many of the world’s top wine regions, Rueda has largely limestone soils, but its secret weapon is its main grape, the Verdejo. This is a vine of good aroma, and a crispness and balance that is all too often missing from Viura, and thus in white Rioja. Besides Verdejo, there is also some Viura, Palomino (of Sherry fame) and increasingly fine Sauvignon Blanc.
The Wines
Rueda Superior is generally a white wine of 100% Verdejo (by law minimum 85%), whereas straight Rueda may contain up to 50% Palomino and Viura. Reds have been produced here for a while, but outside the D.O. - They are now allowed inside the D.O.
Toro
The vineyards of Toro are a little further downstream from Ribera del Duero, thus a little warmer and can be harvested in the heat rather than the cool. Perhaps it is from the shorter growing season but Toro wines always seem more 'foursquare' than Ribera and can seem brutal rather than refined and elegant, that having been said, these are good wines and decent value.
Toro is emerging from its rustic sleep as interest laps over from Ribera with many new Bodegas being founded and perhaps a more refined style being produced.
Gastronomy
Typical dishes in Northern Spain include:
Cochinillo asado: Roast milk-fed piglet
Cordero asado: Roast milk-fed young lamb
Cabrito asado: Roast Kid.
Chuletas de cordero al sarmiento: Lamb chops grilled over a fire of vine shoots.
Pimientos de piquillo: Stuffed spicy peppers.
Merluza/bacalao à la Riojana: Hake or cod with peppers and tomatoes.
Patatas à la Riojana: Potato stew with chorizo.
Esparragos: White asparagus.
Alubias con chorizio: White beans in a stew with cured sausage.
Meals at the bodegas are leisurely and fairly substantial. For the other meals you may explore the Tapas bars. Ordering a selection of Tapas is a great way to try local specialities:
Tortilla Espana: Potato and onion omelette.
Tortilla Riojana: Omelette with vegetables.
Revuelto de ajos: Scrambled eggs with garlic.
Revuelto de hongas: Scrambled eggs with ceps
Aceitunas: Olives.
Jamon Serrano: Spanish equivalent to Parma ham.
Morcilla: Black pudding.
Queso: Cheese.
