The Midi France Wine Notes — 01/01/2007

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The Midi

This corner of south-east France saw the first plantings of vines in Gaul. Until very recently it was beleived that the Greeks introduced them in the 6th Century BC, however acheological evidence from shipwrecks and amphora now suggest that it was the Etruscans who played the larger role.

There are many important appellations here, though most are not UK household names:

Bandol: Lying on the Mediterranean coast, this ancient and idyllic appellation’s wines have recently started gaining the favour and renown they deserve. The wines here come in all three colours, though the reds stand head and shoulders above the rest. The red is made from the fickle, but high quality Mouvèdre grape, which seems to like the clay and limestone soils and the heat moderated by the sea breezes. All this gives rise to wines of classical structure, vivid fruit with a whiff of herbs and leather.

Côteaux d’Aix & Côteaux d’Aix Les Beaux de Provence: We have very much enjoyed the superb Syrah-Cabernet reds from these areas, many of which are now produced as vins de pays. The Appellation Authorities seem to have it in for Cabernet here, viewing it as an alien and a harbinger of the heretical varietal wine cult. They are discouraging planting and squeezing it out of the appellations.

Côtes de Provence: The best known wines are the Rosés. These are also the least interesting and are largely aimed at an uncritical market, the summer 'cold wine' drinker. Quite frankly many of these wines have a flat, boring even dirty flavour. With the increasingly well-made reds and whites though, it's a different story: The reds from local varieties including Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Syrah can be rich, powerful and satisfying. The whites are interestingly aromatic and surprisingly well balanced. Also lookout for named "Villages" - a favourite of ours is the island of Pocquorolles.

Languedoc-Roussillon

This huge area runs from the Spanish border right the way across the Mediterranean coastline to Provence. It houses dozens of appellations and a seemingly endless variety of wines, the best known of which are Corbières, Minervois, Pic St Loup, Fitou and La Clape. There are interesting fortified ‘Vins Doux Naturelles’ such as Muscats and Banyuls.

Throughout its length and breadth, heat is the uniting factor, with summer temperatures often reaching vine-wilting heights. This lead to the planting of many heat resistant varietals, most notably Grenache, Cinsault and latterly Syrah.

The reds can be sublime, with power, fruit and longevity. The whites are a more mixed affair, as generally speaking the local white varieties are not up to much. There is great potential for ‘imported’ varietals such as Chardonnay, Viognier and Marsanne.

For decades the wines were tannic, fruitless articles, that were the product of over-cropping and poor vinification in badly equipped wineries. Today across the board there is a dynamism in the area. Once lumbering co-ops and large firms are turning out good, well priced wines, the ever growing band of top estates are making some seriously classy wines.

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*Cuisine of the Midi *

The cuisine of the Midi is so famous it hardly needs introduction. The fish, particularly in stews and soups is legendary, as are the hearty daubes and cassoulet.

Provence

Soup de poissons: The classic fish soup.
Bouillabaisse: The classic mixed fish stew.
Bourride: Creamy fish and Lobster stew.
Rouget grillé: Grilled red mullet.
Friture: Fried whitebait.
Veau Provençal: Veal stewed with tomato & olives.
Daube Provençal: Hearty aromatic beef stew.
Merguez: Spicey, herby sausages.
Civet d’escargot: A somewhat slimy snail stew.
Salade Provençale: Lettuce, anchovy, egg & olive.
Salade Nicoise: as above with Tuna.
Aioli: Garlic, egg, lemon & olive oil sauce.

Languedoc

Soupe aux fèves: Broad bean & dumpling soup.
Boillinade: Fish and potato bake.
Brandade de Morue: Rustic purée of salt cod.
Civet de Langoustes: Crawfish in red wine.
Daube Languedocienne: Beef and haricot stew
Cassoulet: Harricot, sausage & duck or pork bake
Poulet au Rivesaltes: Chicken in Rivesaltes wine.
Canard à l’Albigoise: Braised duck à l’orange.

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