Scallops on the grill

Rovinj

Gourmet Istria

29 October - 2 November 2008

Istrians tend not so much to think of themselves as Italians, Croatians or Slovenes, more as Istrians first who happen to be Italian, Croatian or Slovene. The majority of Istria is in Croatia and that is where this tour is based.

Istria, is the famous white truffle’s ‘other home’. Piemonte is of course the most famous white truffle region, but the Istrian Truffle is held in the same esteem by Gourmets. Indeed Istria long held the record for the largest white truffle ever found – a monster of 1.3 kilos found in 1999. Amazingly, the truffle hunter did not sell it, instead he used it to feed 100 people!

We will go on a truffle hunt and hope to unearth some of these most precious tubers. As this is the height of the truffle season, there will be various truffle events in the towns and villages too.
Besides truffles, Istria produces good prosciutto and in the autumn they also have superb fish. We dine at the two best restaurants in Istria, where over the past year we have enjoyed absolutely superb food and wine.

Of course, given the season, our menus include truffle laced autumnal dishes served with a wide range of Croatian wines, chosen to complement. We will also enjoy a couple of rustic lunches at wine domaines or typical Konobas (auberge).

The main white wine, Malvasia Istriana or Malvazija Istarka is extremely interesting. Gently aromatic with a scent of Acacia flowers, it has a grip on the palate with nice balancing acidity and a lingering aftertaste. It is usually made dry, sometimes oaked and the best versions are aged in Acacia wood barrels.
There is also a little Muscat here and a feisty red is made from Teran, a similar grape to the Italian Refosco. We visit a couple of the best wine estates: Matosovic and Koslovic. We also visit Pula, for its Roman Amphitheatre and the elegant seaside town of Opatija and even visit Ljubljana, the charming capital of Slovenia on the first day for lunch at a wine bar.

The bustling daily market is packed with local produce including honey, fruit, cheeses, herbs and flavoured grappa.